This project is a way for me to do two different things. 1) I hope to provide my fiancé with a beautiful, homemade, sturdy, and most important feature to highlight the paddle board. 2) Test the fiberglass/epoxy app I hope to use on a canoe one day! During the planning phase, I looked at several different sites and found that the \"Ocean Park\" covered by fiberglass and epoxy is a popular elegant design. However, to keep the process as light as possible, I decided to improve durability/protection using rigid foam insulation covered by epoxy and fiberglass. This site: basically recorded the same plan I was trying to make, slightly different. Other plans around the Internet, such as the surfboard production plan, also provide helpful tips for shaping and promoting. Materials:- 8\' x4 \'x2\' hard Bubble insulation ( I used 4 em from Home Depot, about $17. Shout out to my friend Jim, who asked me to transport these things with his truck. If I try to tie them to the top of my car, they will be torn in a second)- Liquid Nails, 2 to 3 tubes. Make sure the liquid nail is rated as a foam board with a low VOC content, otherwise it may be eaten through the foam. The Red Label is obviously eaten through foam, but the blue one seems to be safe. -1/4\" ply wood ( These will be torn into 2 \"11\" sections and used as \"string lines\" to support and distribute weight \"). I used 1/4 \"because I still have some left, but I can imagine any plywood working ( Probably except OSB). I have even come across plans to use a 1 \"pin that is the same length as the board. -Joint Compound- Epoxy and fiberglass ( Order online from US Composite Materials)-Epoxy pigment ( Optional, but added a little color to the design)Tools:-Circular saw (or table saw) Tear off the longitudinal beam-razor knife-hand saw(s) Play around and see what works best for you. - Weight and drill bit of plywood ( Apply clamping force when bonding)-surform rasp- First of all, surfboards make commercial use of a blank to make their boards. Carved, molded and sealed square parts make it glide effortlessly on the surface of the water. The upright paddle plate I want to make ( In its widest size) About 11. 5ft long, 31 inch wide, 5 wide. 5 inches thick. This is just based on some arbitrary measurements of the paddle board sold online. I want to make sure it\'s big enough for myself (around 220lbs) It\'s fine if I want to go and enjoy it. Statement: like Donedirtcheap, as he mentioned in his instructions, I have to have a high center of gravity, because while many claim that paddling is easy, I found myself falling from them many times. So to finish this size (11. 5ft long, 31 inch wide, 5 wide. 5 inches thick) From the 8\' x4 \'x2\' foam board I need 4 pieces. The plates are cut and arranged accordingly and I try to stagger the seams so that there is no weakness. After the form was laid, I ripped two pieces of plywood \"1/4 wide\" to make sure I had enough time span. I then cut the top foam board into 3 long sections (two 9. 5 \"about 12 parts and center parts\" instead of having these parts equal in width, I\'m trying to mimic where they are on the board) Clip the plywood in the middle. These are string bars that increase the strength of the board length. Plywood is not the only option, but this is the most viable as I have a piece of extra long plywood. Then add waste foam to the nose so that the board can cross the deck like the ship\'s bow and break the waves. Once I laid the pieces, I applied the liquid nails to all surfaces, put them together, put down the weight and keep them in place. I put some long plywood under heavy objects to prevent metal heavy objects from indenting in the foam. I don\'t think it is very important to cover the foam completely with glue, because epoxy and fiberglass will be the main agent that will eventually combine everything together. The liquid nails I use are rubbish. Once it\'s caught between the two foam boards, it never seems to dry. I heard that Elmers Brand \"Gorilla Glue\" works very well and is popular in foam models, but I can\'t find it and I chose liquid nails. When the liquid nails failed, I ended up using the normal white Universal elmers Glue. Once the glue is dry ( Follow the instructions on the bottle) , You can start to draw the template on the blank to guide your styling. The specific design is endless. In general, though you can make them thinner, point to speed, or wider and more rounded in order to drive more smoothly on rough water. On a bigger lake, I chose the back of two. In order to accurately draw a symmetrical shape on the board, I measured it at different intervals and cut the shape of the curve with sharpie as much as possible. For the bow, I use a sheet of paper as a template to shape one side and flip the other. Once I finished drawing all the lines, I cut the big pieces off with a handsaw. It\'s easy to cut the foam quickly, so be sure to take a moment when you do. It\'s tempting to hit the foam hard, but try to get the saw to do most of the work and apply as little pressure as possible to get a smooth edge. After the shape of the board was rough, I started to shape the board with surform rasp, which eats through foam like butter. Gently move the rasp throughout the process, just like a saw, do not put too much pressure on it, otherwise you will take out the large pieces of foam. I \'ve read a few items using a 2nd handmade cheese grinder, but whatever you do, make sure you do it in a closed area that can be cleaned up. If these small foam particles are dispersed by the wind, they will cause serious damage. Using rasp, I cut all the edges diagonally and the bottom is a little bit more than the top. Visual from time to ensure that each side is symmetrical. Then I formed the bow of the board, from pre- Determine the center line. Marking the opposite side with sharpie can help you determine how much you take off to keep the bow and edges even. Once the shape of the board reaches the satisfaction of the builder, check again to make sure you get rid of any rough spots, especially at the bottom, because this will affect the speed and the trajectory of the board in the water. For large dents or uneven parts ( Just like the top of the bow meets the deck) , I applied the joint compound and smoothed it all to make the aircraft more aerodynamic. I did the same experiment with painter caulk, but it also had no sand. These boards are huge ( Quite light though) Therefore, it is beneficial to have a place that can help carry the beast. I \'ve seen these on the business board and don\'t know the official name, so I call it the \"handle box \". It\'s basically a small hole. The size of a hand, in the middle of the board, lets you carry it with one arm. First, I position the center of gravity of the board by tying a little rope in the middle and see exactly where it is balanced. This may change with the addition of epoxy and fiberglass, but this is a good starting point. Then I cut a rectangular section from the first layer of foam with a razor (2 inches thick! ). This part should be 1/2 larger than a person\'s hand. After cleaning up the carved part, I used 1/4 \"plywood ( The rest from stringers) To add this, I used the fragment of stringer ( 1/4 \"thick 2\" wide). To be honest, I was surprised that the track Sander works as well as it does. . . . Use 200 sand ( I started doing a good job to avoid tearing the big cake off the board) I turned the whole board over until it went well. The same technique applies: Do not use force and let the Sander do its work. You can actually see the foam cells smooth down, which means you did the job. I also made sure to hit any area where the joint compound was added and the edge of the fin and handle box. From this point on, any edge or divot will be transmitted via epoxy, so please take a moment to complete this step. After polishing, I wipe it clean with a wet rag to remove most of the particles that prevent the epoxy from combining with cardboard. Then I moved it to the outside garage to prepare for the renovation. Now you have something that looks like a functional paddle board (albeit ugly) Although there is no epoxy reinforcement, it may still be too weak to actually use. Maybe not, gloves, goggles and N- 95 when doing so, mask and keep in a well ventilated area. I don\'t have any problems based on this suggestion and I won\'t risk not doing it. So after doing some research on absorption and buying something from American Composites ( I use 3:1 hardening agent ( Forgot the quantity but sold with resin), epoxy resin (1gal), fiberglass (38 yards \"- I don\'t know the exact type either, but the type I bought is shown on their website), pigment (4 oz. ) , 2 pumps for resin and hardening agent dispersion. I also used a single cup, plastic spoon, cheap paint brush and plastic scraper. I \'ve listed several steps to guide people through the process of moving forward, but I\'m far from being close to decent in the process. This is my first attempt, and to be honest, I prefer people to watch some YouTube videos and read a book about Canoe architecture rather than listen to what I say. However, before you start, set up your epoxy and hardening agent with the pump and place them in front of the heat or work light. This heats the liquid, reduces the viscose fiber and makes it easier to use. 1) I start at the top so that I can Function side of the board. First, lay the fiberglass along the length of the board and center it as much as possible. Using the brush, brush out the spots it lifts from the foam body. Now my board is about 31 \"wide, fiberglass 38\" but I didn\'t cut it into the right size. I would like to be able to wrap the edges a bit and leave something extra to capture the drops. 2) Once your fiberglass is in place, go into the epoxy phase. Mix the appropriate proportion of the resin and the hardening agent, fully mix, and at this time you can also add about half a teaspoon of pigment ( As I found out, a little bit of paint will help a lot, and it doesn\'t matter if you add the exact amount to each mixture). Next, pour the epoxy resin along the center of the plate and spread it back and forth, up and down, side by side with a plastic paint scraper until it fully saturates the area. When you\'re done, move to the next area and add more. The sides of the paint scraper are a bit tricky, so I just applied it with rubber gloves. Once you have covered the entire fiberglass, wait about 2 hours. 3) After 2 hours of having the resin combined with fiberglass, you can do what people call a \"filling coating. It\'s basically just an extra coat that can fill anywhere you miss in the first round. Some people recommend using rubber rollers to apply resin to this round. The mixing process is the same as above. Once you put on two coats, let the whole thing sit for a few days. 4) After a few days of hardening everything, trim the excess fiberglass that has hardened and extend out of the table in a kiloFashion Talent Trim with scissors can\'t get all the fiber, so after that I grind the edges flat with a track Sander. Once the edges are smooth, you can turn the board over and the glass fiber is on the opposite side. 5) For the bottom, I trimmed the fiberglass to match the width of the plate and overlap with the edges that have been glass-coated. Scissors work well when cutting fiberglass, but make sure the sheets are not moving, causing you to cut too much. 6) Use the same process outlined in substep 2 to the other side of the epoxy board. 7) Once both sides are coated with two initial base coatings and then dry for a few days, one can start using an additional epoxy coating to smooth the ship\'s hull and deck. Using the \"disposable\" brush works well in the process. I think the heating lamp method is the most critical as thinner resin leaves fewer defects. 8) When the hull and deck are worn with satisfactory glasses, polish it with high sandpaper to eliminate any form of burrs or edges. I think more than 400 to 1000 is enough. It really depends on how perfectionist you are at this point. I\'m sure people can make shark fin with plywood covered on epoxy, but I want shark fin to be as accurate as possible, so I found a shark fin box and a shark fin at a reasonable price on Amazon. The fins make the plate not turn too much when paddling, but also increase the stability of the ship. You can choose from a variety of styles and configurations, but I just used a large single fin about 1 feet from the back. To install the shark fin box, I first cut off a piece of epoxy/fiberglass, carve out the foam, pour some epoxy and place it in place. Once the epoxy is dry and the fin box is in place, I put a piece of tape on the fin slot to prevent the epoxy from accidentally dripping in and damaging the configuration. I then used more epoxy to smooth/reinforce the edges of finbox\'s encounter with the board Hull. It was a bit tricky to put shark fin in the shark fin box and I had to consult YouTube to figure it out. Finbox has a center hole that leads to a slot with the same length as the box. The idea is to manipulate the fins into the slot, starting with the locked bit, following with the hook, and then fixing it in place with a Philips screwdriver. I think the fins may be removed so they can be stored better, but it\'s a very smart design if they break, can prevent the whole thing from becoming useless when it hits a rock or falls off your car. Sorry, I don\'t know how good this will be during use, but here it is. I made several stripes along the main body of the board with some latex paint and painter tape. After the paint is dry, I apply another layer of epoxy to protect the paint ( I think the more epoxy you use, the stronger the board will be). It made the whole board \"popular. Overall, the project is relatively easy. The epoxy \'ing process is very time consuming, but it is worth it in the end. The board worked well during the first test run. In fact, I did it too much because it could easily carry the weight of me and the other person. Plans for future upgrades include having an eye on the ship\'s head, connecting an anchor on the ship\'s head, and allowing a person to kick back and sunbathe if the paddle gets older. Also, some stick to the foam to make your base more stable as the epoxy will become very smooth when wet. Thank you for watching and feel free to comment! Hopefully in the winter we can get a real SUP paddle and leave the kayak paddle to the kayak. It was a drag and I didn\'t start doing it until the summer was over ( In Michigan) But we hope to get more use next summer!