resin stabilizing wood

by:Huihua     2020-03-09
Good evening, netizens!
Here, today I will show you how to stabilize the wood with resin in the home workshop.
\"But wait,\" I can hear you say, \"What is the ghost of resin stability and why am I in my store? \". Good question!
First, some background.
Wood is a natural material, as you may know, and you may not know that Wood will move.
The difference in humidity and temperature can cause the wood to expand or shrink, change in size, and even warp.
The reason for this is that the wood absorbs moisture, causes expansion, or the wood loses moisture, resulting in shrinkage.
This can be a problem if you want to make something with wood that requires strict tolerances, such as making a pen, or using it as a handle scale on a knife (
My personal favorite).
On wet days you can fit the handle well and then once the air drops slightly the handle scale is no longer as appropriate as a knife or tie the pen
Disaster, in other words!
This brings us the process of resin stabilization.
This process requires a drying process to remove all the moisture in the wood and put the present bone
Dry the wood into a vacuum chamber to remove all the air, and then introduce the acrylic resin into the wood, occupying all the small corners and corners that the moisture in the wood cells can absorb.
The end result is that a piece of wood no longer moves with the change of humidity
Stable size E (hence the name! ).
Stability has also brought many other benefits.
In addition to the above motor problems, stability is also used in small wood, sp wood or cork to strengthen them;
Acrylic resin adds a lot of strength to the wood itself.
Now, it doesn\'t turn Balsa into maple, but it will, like chestnuts, make soft wood hard enough to be used in large quantities like a handle.
Stable wood is also often easier to process, more resistant to decay, and no finishing is required.
They also brought a very lovely Polish.
Most importantly, although the acrylic resin penetrates the wood, it still feels like the wood in its hand, not the plastic!
Great for you?
Let\'s see how to make some!
So, first you need to collect your materials and tools, otherwise you won\'t do a lot of things.
I. Software: 1. Wood.
Yes, I know this is obvious, but I\'m sure someone will forget it if I don\'t list it.
Now, stability works well in many forests, but there are a few things that need attention;
This does not work with wood with high natural grease content (
Most exotic items such as rosewood and coconut fruit, or oily household items such as teak)
, And the dense woods did not seem to allow the resin to penetrate well enough.
I don\'t recommend trying anything harder or more dense than a hard maple.
There are a wide variety of sass Wood, American chestnuts, sp trees, bas trees, mountain hair trees and walnuts. 2.
Stable resin.
There are a few options here.
I used cactus juice. catalyzed heat-
Active acrylic resin.
This is my favorite and I highly recommend it and it works very well and TurnTex Woodworks is perfect for working with it. Stick-
I have heard that Fast resin is another resin that works well and is easily replaced in this guide.
I am away from the easier solutions recommended online, such as Minwax wood hardening agent or frequently used
Recommended plexiglass dissolved with acetone.
Neither process is suitable, both of which are highly flammable and will (not can, will)
Destroy your vacuum pump
No matter what you use, you need enough to fully fill your vacuum chamber, and more is needed for the software (materials)
On hardware.
Now, I don\'t usually recommend specialized equipment, but this is necessary for this: 1. Toaster Oven.
Before stabilizing, you need to use it to dry the wood and solidify the resin after injecting the resin into the wood.
There is nothing particularly toxic in it, so your kitchen oven works as well, but the toaster oven is cheap and usually has better heat control. 2. Vacuum Pump.
This is absolutely necessary.
Do what you can, two-
If you can swing the stage, you need to draw the vacuum as much as possible.
An electric rotary film pump like this works fine.
If you want a better price, you can also find used HVAC pumps on ebay.
The Wenzhong pump connected to the air compressor is technically working, but the time you need to run it will strain your compressor.
Don\'t try those things that pump the brakes to deflate, they don\'t work for it, and you don\'t want to know how I know. 3. Vacuum Chamber.
You can build or buy these.
I chose to build mine and I will give you a quick run next.
This is also a great resource if you decide to buy yours.
At first glance, the price seems to be high, but you will get a very solid building quality and there is a good company to support the work.
1 gallon freezer bag.
Do you know why all your stuff needs this?
Okay, go ahead!
OK, this is a quick and dirty overview of how I can build my room.
It\'s really simple, totally pieced together, but has been serving me for a long time.
My setup is a two-part design, a chamber that cools the wood to be stabilized in the resin, a secondary overflow chamber that reduces the risk of my vacuum pump absorbing the resin (
Read: bad things happen).
So, first of all, shopping list: 1.
Two mason jars with a lid-
Yes, it\'s very safe to use.
The Mason jar is actually designed to withstand vacuum pressure, which is what is needed for the canning process.
I have gone through hundreds of cycles and haven\'t broken them yet. (5)
1/4 \"hose with Thorn to 1/4 MPT Connector 3. (1)
1/4 \"inverted hook to 1/4 FPT Connector 3. (3)
1/4 \"FPT tube package 4. (1)
1/4 \"brass pipe tee5. (2)
1/4 \"brass ball valve6(5)hose clamps7.
1/4 \"pipe, I use vinyl here.
4 fluorine thread tape, do not have any leakage.
In order to seal the leak, a drill bit with a 1/2 bit is also required.
Betcha did not notice one of the duplicate numbers.
So, first, put a few holes in the lid of the Mason jar, 2 holes in one hole and 1 hole in the other.
After that, assemble everything as shown in the picture.
Really, they explain a lot more than anything I can type.
Now, a few things to pay attention to with this setting: 1.
If the resin bubbles, the 2 room design will prevent the resin from entering the pump, more later.
You can get away with it with only the stable room, but I don\'t recommend it.
Use the hose as much as possible between the vacuum pump and valve settings, which can reduce the risk of pump failure.
Valve setting is important, it will allow you to keep the vacuum in the chamber setting while closing the pump and re-introduce air to the system.
It also allows to control the disassembly speed of the chamberand re-pressurized4.
Air the system as much as you can-tight.
Fill in all joints, thread tape all pipe connections, connect the hose to the inverted hook fittingsIt using a hose clamp, shouldn\'t spend too much time making your device look like mine,
The only challenging part is to connect the hose to the vacuum pump, but since there are many different pumps and methods to connect the hose, it makes no sense for me to try to list them here.
I replaced my horn fitting with a thorn fitting and attached the hose to it, you may need to do something different.
Once your room settings are all built, let\'s continue to discuss interesting things!
OK, now it\'s time to start doing business and get the wood ready and put in the vacuum chamber.
The first thing you want to do is get your wood close to the finished size you need.
After all, you don\'t want to waste time and material to stabilize a 3 \"x 4\" x 5 \"piece of wood if you\'re going to cut it into a 1\" cube afterwards.
I am stabilizing this batch for use as a knife scale, so I processed my bricks and bricks into about 1 block. 5\"x4.
5x1/4 \", everything is a bit too big.
This is what works for me.
Remember, you want to make your size as small as possible, but leave a little extra if there is any twist during the drying process.
When it comes to drying, let\'s talk about it!
Before entering the resin, the wood needs to be as close to 0% moisture as possible.
The more dryers of wood, the more resin penetrates, the better the end result.
The stabilization process will fail if the wood is too wet, so please take this part seriously.
Also note that when I say wet, nothing will feel wet. What I\'m talking about here is actually getting stuck in the water in the wood cells that we need to remove.
Now, the drying process is very simple, stick the wood in your toaster oven, put it in 250f, and put it there for as long as possible.
In my case, I cooked the balance for about 8 hours. Overkill?
Yeah, maybe, but it\'s better than keeping a low profile.
Thicker pieces take longer to dry, so the thicker pieces, the longer you want to leave it there.
I suggest at least 2 hours, but again, as long as possible.
Once you get these things dry enough, put them in the zipper-
Top freezer bags to cool them to room temperature.
Quick tip, if you see condensation inside the bag, the blank part is not dry enough to bounce back at high temperature before the bag remains clean.
Make sure your blanks cool in a sealed container, and if you put them on the counter, the blanks actually absorb moisture from the air, which goes against the purpose of drying them now, the wood I used was dry at first so I cut my work very close to the final size I wanted.
If your parts are not too dry, they twist when they dry in the oven, so for the first few batches, I suggest you put them in a fairly large position.
OK, once your blank is good and dry again, go ahead and get the next step!
Nice and cool wood? Are you sure?
Remember, the resin used at the time was hot
Activated, so when you put the wood in, if the wood is still hot, the resin is activated on the surface and prevents any absorption, so make sure it\'s cool. You\'re sure? Really?
Wait a minute to make sure and come back.
OK, now that the wood is cool enough to dry, it\'s time for stability!
The picture explains a lot again, so please check for more details.
First, remove the lid from the two jars to make sure they are clean and empty.
Now, put the blocks in a jar.
This will be the stability chamber, which covers with 1 hose.
Once the wood is blank in the jar, find some way to prevent them from floating.
I found a round shredded chicken to do a good job, just bend it so it can press the wood to the bottom of the jar.
When you\'re done, take out your cactus juice and fill the jar for about 3/4.
Cover the lid and put it aside.
Now, pick up the remaining jars, fill in no more than 1/2 with resin, and screw the rest of the lid.
This will be the reservoir, it has two purposes.
First, the air space at the top of the jar will keep the pump from inhaling the liquid.
Its second purpose is to keep the stable chamber full of resin and more in a minute.
Make sure the lies are properly connected and the pick hose in the reservoir reaches the bottom of the jar.
Once you do that, it\'s time for the Spurs to do it.
The valve that adjusts the valve to open the air is completely closed, the valve that enters the chamber is opened all the time, and then the vacuum pump is opened.
A little bubble, right?
Now let it run until you no longer see the bubbles coming out of the resin.
Pay attention to the hose between the valve and the chamber to ensure that no resin is sucked away.
If so, open the valve quickly, open the air to release the vacuum, and do not let the pump suck the resin.
After that, a large amount of foam soon disappeared and was almost forgotten.
Again, just keep the pump running until there are no bubbles, which can take 30 minutes to a few hours depending on the thickness of the blank.
Don\'t worry. It takes time.
Once the bubble stops, it\'s time to turn off the pump.
Don\'t just flip the switch though, you\'ll kill your pump.
Instead, close the valve leading to the chamber and open the valve leading to the open air.
Once the pump pulls the air, turn it off.
Now slowly open the valve leading to the chamber.
When the air rushes back into the system, you will hear a huge \"wow\" and an increase in pressure will force the resin in the reservoir to enter the stable chamber and fill it fully. Neat, huh?
This pressure is actually the magic of the process, and now the atmospheric pressure will force the resin into all the tiny little corners and gaps in the wood that are used by water and air to occupy, all you have to do is wait
How long will you wait?
Here, it depends on the rule of thumb that as long as the vacuum is running, double the blank soak
If your pump is running for 4 hours, let the blank soak for 8 hours.
Personally, I like three times the time ,(
2 hours of vacuuming, 6 hours of soaking)
I always spend at least 12 hours.
Too much time can\'t hurt, but too little time can hurt.
You also want to make sure that any part of the blank is not exposed to the air and that everything should be covered with resin.
Room 2 design should ensure this, but being vigilant will never hurt.
If any part of the blank is exposed to air, please restart the vacuum process.
Once everything is fine and soaked, come with me next step!
It is shocking that the title is not ironic.
Let\'s say you let your blank soak long enough that they are now completely saturated with acrylic, but this resin still needs to be cured.
To do this, you need to expose it to the high temperature of 200f in this case.
We use the toaster oven again.
You can bake your blank packs on the foil or put them all on the wire rack like I did.
The packaging blank will reduce the smoke generated, but will let the excess resin dry on the surface, the wire rack will let the excess resin fall off, but will extinguish a little smoke.
The work of the two is equally excellent.
The key here is time and temperature, and the core of your blank must reach 200f.
Set the oven to 200f, put everything in and wait a few hours.
Too much time won\'t hurt anything, but take the blanks out too soon and they\'re ruined.
I made a 1/4 thick handle scale here, so I left my cooking time for about 2 minutes. 5 hours.
The thicker part takes longer and you can\'t do it in a hurry.
Let them cook overnight if you can control it, as long as the temperature stays around 200f, you won\'t hurt them.
Once the blanks are baked, put them on one side to cool at this point and congratulate you that your wood has officially stabilized and is bound by all the benefits of the craft!
Clean up the excess resin and see what you have!
Well, it still looks like ordinary old wood.
I don\'t think it makes any sense.
Oh OK see you next time please do you really think I will leave like this?
One of the biggest benefits of stabilizing Wood is that it looks like wood and feels like wood, but the finished product is a wonderful mix.
I knocked a knife with some Sassafras that I stabilized.
Before stabilizing, it was a wood that I had never used on the handle, it was too soft and moved too much, it was difficult to use due to particle breakage, and it was very unsuitable for this application.
However, the wood is much harder after the stabilization process (
I can\'t grind it flat with my nails anymore)
, More resistant to rot, more durable, easier to use, perfect fit with the soup of the knife, it will keep fit.
The best part is that this knife does not have a finish and does not require oil or varnish.
The acrylic resin embedded in the wood fiber now allows the wood itself to be polished very high, so it looks better. The best part?
It still doesn\'t feel like plastic, it still feels like wood.
Sassafras also smells like a root beer.
The photo of the second knife also has the same success story, the wood itself is too soft, too unstable, not durable enough, etc.
The only recovery factor is that it is beautiful.
However, after the stability, this is perfect for a knife holder, now you know how the process is done, go out and salvage the good looking waste you want to do,, because it can\'t stand the lathe, put it aside.
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